48 Hours in Birmingham

August 2023

BY AMITY MOORE JOYCE

Celebrate Birmingham's 60th Civil Rights Anniversary. This year, in conjunction with other Birmingham civil rights champions, the city will recognize the 60th anniversary of the Birmingham Civil Rights Movement

Friday

AFTERNOON

To stay near the heart of where Birmingham’s Civil Rights Movement unfolded, consider two accommodations. The Redmont Hotel, part of Hilton’s Curio Collection, is the oldest-running hotel in the city. It first opened in 1925; now, it combines the verve of the 1920s with today’s desire for swank comfort. Enjoy “happy hour” at the rooftop bar, where you can see the city skyline and get an overview of the neighborhood—you’re only five blocks from the Birmingham Civil Rights National Monument. Another option, and a 15-minute walk from the national monument, is the Elyton Hotel. It is a AAA Four Diamond property housed in the former Empire Building. For an easy, unique after-dinner excursion, visit Sloss Furnaces, already a great daytime attraction, to experience “Light Up Sloss.” This energy-efficient display literally spotlights and backlights in bright colors Sloss’ historic furnaces, smokestacks and iconic water tower.

EVENING 

For dinner, check out Chef Adam Evans’ amazing dishes at Automatic Seafood and Oysters. Last year, he was named Best Chef in the South by the James Beard Foundation. For years, Frank Stitt and his Highlands Bar & Grill have been nominated and won for Best Chef in the Southeast and Outstanding Restaurant. Because of the popularity of both restaurants, it is wise to make reservations.

Saturday

MORNING

Take it easy in Railroad Park, a 19-acre green space that’s known as Birmingham’s Living Room due to its reputation as a gathering spot for recreation, cultural events and simply lounging around. Browse The Market at Pepper Place, a farmers market that typically operates from mid-January through mid-December

NOON 

Eat lunch at Homecoming Book Cafe found inside the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute. Owner Yvette Chatman serves “Southern cafe fare” alongside shelves filled with products from Black retailers and books by Black authors. It’s a great place to begin an exploration of the civil rights institute, which interprets what happened during the city’s Civil Rights Movement. For sounds of the movement, check out the renovated Alabama Jazz Hall of Fame, expected to reopen in April this year. Next, walk less than a mile to the Negro Southern League Museum, where you can check out baseball Hall-of-Famer Satchel Paige’s pitches, thanks to hologram projection. This small but well-done museum presents the history of African-American baseball.

AFTERNOON

Stop by Good People Brewing for its Snake Handler Double IPA. Then take your afternoon to new heights at the Southern Museum of Flight. Climb into the cockpit of vintage planes, try flight simulators and browse the hangar-like facility filled with more than 100 aircraft. If planes are not your thing but you still want to fly high, then enjoy the afternoon on the mega, 1,000-foot-long zipline ride or hiking trails at Red Mountain Park. 

EVENING 

Birmingham is known as the “Dinner Table of the South.” The tagline is well earned, thanks to the plethora of award-winning or notable restaurants, including Helen and Hot and Hot Fish Club. Later, check out live performances at one of three of the South’s most gorgeous music venues, the Lyric, Alabama and Carver theaters.

Sunday

MORNING

Put on your Sunday best and attend a 10:45 a.m. worship service at the historic 16th Street Baptist Church, a civil rights landmark and part of the Birmingham Civil Rights National Monument and Birmingham Civil Rights District.

NOON 

Eat at Michael’s Restaurant, located about a mile from the civil rights district near Regions Field. Dig into a tasty brunch with dishes that span from chicken and waffles to beef tips and rice.

AFTERNOON 

Explore the sites that make up the Birmingham Civil Rights National Monument. You already started by going to the 16th Street Baptist Church. Walk through Kelly Ingram Park, noting the evocative statues that replicate scenes from the park’s time as an assembly point for participants in the Southern Christian Leadership Conference’s protests.